Well after having almost a year or more of constant injuries relating to climbing and not relating to climbing. I'm finally fixed and have started training again.
Over the past 5 weeks I've been training power endurance indoors on a bouldering roof and mixing in some 45' board climbing as well. Sessions generally went as listed below:
Roof problems:
I'd climb the f6c+, jump off, then jump straight back onto the f7a and complete that one. These are both about 30 move problems, with the majority of climbing across a roof.
After a 2 minute rest I'd get back on and climb the f7b+, then rest for a further 5 minutes.
I'd then climb the f7c+ and rest for about 5minutes again.
I did all these in under 10-15minutes at the start due to getting pumped so much. I now do them all as listed above. This works well as my warm up.
This may not sound like much, but my power endurance was shocking from doing short 10 move problems for years. Each problem listed above is about 30+ moves and predominantly roof climbing.
Board climbing
The board climbing I've been doing has mainly been on problems I've created between V6-V8, which are generally a very wide style and a mix of pinches and crimps.
I've also got a project that's above V10, which is made up of big moves on very small crimps. I can currently do half the problem but the top section is proving difficult due to sore skin.
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