It's been a busy week so I haven't had time to update this.
However this week has been a week of progress!
The training sessions are generally running like usual with a mix campus boarding/ fingerboarding/ roof climbing and 45' board training.
I finally got 1-4-7 back and doing 1-3-5-7-9-11 is becoming very easy on the middle rungs. Next week I'll be stepping this up to the smaller rungs and seeing how I fare.
I also repeated the f7c roof problem fairly easily and I have made big progress on the f8b roof problem, there is a final section which is requiring more work but this will be conditions dependent!
Unfortunately I ripped a fingertip again on Thursday, so it looks like I'm confined to easy stuff for the weekend. I plan to head down to the wall today to do laps on jug problems and slab work. I'm thinking of doing some pull up and lock off training as well. This all depends on my fingertip though. I'll update on this later.
1 week left in London now, So I'm hoping to get the last bit of decent training in that I can before the move back North.
Saturday 13 July 2013
Friday 5 July 2013
04/07/13 - Session
I had a session today where I got to test a load of routes with an old friend of mine, who I used to route set with.
He'd just set about 20 problems and needed a consensus on gradings, so I helped him grade them. The majority were between V3-V6 and were really good and very different. It was quite nice to just climb for once and not focus on the training aspect.
I finished the session off my doing 15 pull ups on the Beastmaker 2000 Medium pockets.
He'd just set about 20 problems and needed a consensus on gradings, so I helped him grade them. The majority were between V3-V6 and were really good and very different. It was quite nice to just climb for once and not focus on the training aspect.
I finished the session off my doing 15 pull ups on the Beastmaker 2000 Medium pockets.
Wednesday 3 July 2013
02/07/13 Session
Session went as follows:
Roof
1 x ascent of 6c+
1 x ascent of 7a
1 x ascent of 7b
1 x ascent of 7c
45' Board
Working a few problems that are focussing on power, these are going well and shoulder stability is increasing.
This was a 60 minute board session
I finished this session early due to feeling tired.
Fingerboard
20 x pull ups on jugs on Beastmaker 1000
Roof
1 x ascent of 6c+
1 x ascent of 7a
1 x ascent of 7b
1 x ascent of 7c
45' Board
Working a few problems that are focussing on power, these are going well and shoulder stability is increasing.
This was a 60 minute board session
I finished this session early due to feeling tired.
Fingerboard
20 x pull ups on jugs on Beastmaker 1000
30/06/13 Session
I had a short session today which was a mix of bouldering on the roof and on the 45' board.
I've been attempting wider moves on small crimps.
I finished the session on the fingerboard, doing the usual 5 pull ups on every hold on the Beastmaker 1000.
I've been attempting wider moves on small crimps.
I finished the session on the fingerboard, doing the usual 5 pull ups on every hold on the Beastmaker 1000.
Saturday 29 June 2013
29/06/13 Session
Well after 3 days of rest due to my finger tip pulling up, I decided to have a session today. My nail was feeling fine and my skin thickness had increased do it looked like a good session was to be had.
The session went as follows:
1 x ascent of roof 6b+ (25+ moves)
1 x ascent of roof 6c+ (25+ moves)
Bouldered a V2 and V3 boulder problem.
Climbed a roof V4 boulder problem.
I then decided to rest for 10 minutes and then it happened...
I climbed the roof 7c problem after dropping the last move a few times on Tuesday. The problem felt easy and flowed very well, I think the fact I worked out a better sequence for part of the roof section really helped on keeping the power for the last move crux.
I then decided to attempt the 8b roof problem, I managed to hold the front lever style, pull out of a bat hang move and work out the main roof section. So hopefully I've got 3/4's of the roof sorted now and it's just the final section that pulls out of the roof up a 20' overhanging wall. There is one move here that feels about V5/V6 which I reckon will be the stopper, after the previous 17 moves leading up to it. So I plan to work this over the next week or so and get it dialled so that I can do this problem quickly.
45' board climbing
After spending about an hour on the roof I decided to try some board problems that I'd created. A load of new holds have been added to the board recently which has opened up a lot of possibilities for new problems.
I managed to climb a problem that is about V6 involving very wide side pull snatching moves to a big lunge for sloper. This is a good problem for training compression and worked well.
I did a few more problems around this grade and also started trying a new project that looks to be about V9/V10, it involves a mix of everything, with a side pull(left hand) sit start lunging to a sloping crimp(right hand), you then switch the side pull to an undercut and throw your right hand to a gaston, then get a high right foot and power through to a small crimp again. This section is pretty hard and will take a few sessions to complete.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
1-3-5-7-9-10 on large rungs (By this point I was very tired and decided to leave the campus session for next time).
The session lasted about 3 hours 15 minutes. I tried to limit rest times as much as possible and keep trying stuff during this whole period.
With regards to my progression; I'm finding a very big increase in power endurance especially on the roof problems. I'm also noticing more crimping power on the 45' board, which is allowing me to train much crimpier problems. Since I've been trying a lot of wide move problems I've also noticed a big improvement in being stabilised on wide moves.
All in all, the training is definitely working and I'm psyched to test it out on real rock this summer.
The session went as follows:
1 x ascent of roof 6b+ (25+ moves)
1 x ascent of roof 6c+ (25+ moves)
Bouldered a V2 and V3 boulder problem.
Climbed a roof V4 boulder problem.
I then decided to rest for 10 minutes and then it happened...
I climbed the roof 7c problem after dropping the last move a few times on Tuesday. The problem felt easy and flowed very well, I think the fact I worked out a better sequence for part of the roof section really helped on keeping the power for the last move crux.
I then decided to attempt the 8b roof problem, I managed to hold the front lever style, pull out of a bat hang move and work out the main roof section. So hopefully I've got 3/4's of the roof sorted now and it's just the final section that pulls out of the roof up a 20' overhanging wall. There is one move here that feels about V5/V6 which I reckon will be the stopper, after the previous 17 moves leading up to it. So I plan to work this over the next week or so and get it dialled so that I can do this problem quickly.
45' board climbing
After spending about an hour on the roof I decided to try some board problems that I'd created. A load of new holds have been added to the board recently which has opened up a lot of possibilities for new problems.
I managed to climb a problem that is about V6 involving very wide side pull snatching moves to a big lunge for sloper. This is a good problem for training compression and worked well.
I did a few more problems around this grade and also started trying a new project that looks to be about V9/V10, it involves a mix of everything, with a side pull(left hand) sit start lunging to a sloping crimp(right hand), you then switch the side pull to an undercut and throw your right hand to a gaston, then get a high right foot and power through to a small crimp again. This section is pretty hard and will take a few sessions to complete.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
1-3-5-7-9-10 on large rungs (By this point I was very tired and decided to leave the campus session for next time).
The session lasted about 3 hours 15 minutes. I tried to limit rest times as much as possible and keep trying stuff during this whole period.
With regards to my progression; I'm finding a very big increase in power endurance especially on the roof problems. I'm also noticing more crimping power on the 45' board, which is allowing me to train much crimpier problems. Since I've been trying a lot of wide move problems I've also noticed a big improvement in being stabilised on wide moves.
All in all, the training is definitely working and I'm psyched to test it out on real rock this summer.
Tuesday 25 June 2013
25/06/13 Session
Bouldering roof
1 x ascent of 6c+ roof problem
1 x ascent of 7b roof problem
Fell off last move on 7c problem, worked out a new sequence that makes roof crux section easier.
Campus board
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on middle rungs - 3 sets
My fingertip split on the last campus, so I decided to move onto the big rungs and keep my index finger off the campus rungs, so left hand was back 3 campussing.
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs - 3 sets
Fingerboard
I did 5 pull ups on the following:
- Jugs
- 3 finger pocket
- 2 finger pocket
- Smaller 3 finger pocket
10 pull ups on jugs again
Unfortunately I had to cut this session short due to the split tip. I'll have to take a few days rest now.
1 x ascent of 6c+ roof problem
1 x ascent of 7b roof problem
Fell off last move on 7c problem, worked out a new sequence that makes roof crux section easier.
Campus board
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on middle rungs - 3 sets
My fingertip split on the last campus, so I decided to move onto the big rungs and keep my index finger off the campus rungs, so left hand was back 3 campussing.
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs - 3 sets
Fingerboard
I did 5 pull ups on the following:
- Jugs
- 3 finger pocket
- 2 finger pocket
- Smaller 3 finger pocket
10 pull ups on jugs again
Unfortunately I had to cut this session short due to the split tip. I'll have to take a few days rest now.
Monday 24 June 2013
23/06/13 Session
I had a session at another local wall today to try out some new problems.
The session was good and I'm noticing improvement on trying problems above my usual grade. I've also noticed I've got a better lock off ability now and my power endurance increase is really helping on longer problems.
I'm planning on a big session tomorrow, so I'll update more tomorrow.
The session was good and I'm noticing improvement on trying problems above my usual grade. I've also noticed I've got a better lock off ability now and my power endurance increase is really helping on longer problems.
I'm planning on a big session tomorrow, so I'll update more tomorrow.
Friday 21 June 2013
21/06/13 Session
Today's session went pretty well. It went as follows:
Warm up
I climbed the following:
V0
V1
V2
V2
V3
1 x lap of 6c circuit on 45' board.
Bouldering
1 x ascent of 7a roof problem
Attempt on 7b roof problem - Fell on last move.
Attempt on 7c roof problem - Fell on same move as yesterday.
Interestingly the 7b roof problem is feeling much harder than the 7c, this is due to it being a longer problem of perhaps 30 moves into a crimpy finish that comes out of the roof onto an overhanging wall.
I spent about 45 minutes on these problems but decided to stop due to my skin wearing thin from the new holds. Climbing on sandpaper is probably a good comparison of how these holds feel!
Campus Board
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on middle rungs - I managed 5 sets of these today. I aimed for a 90 second break between the first 3, then a 3 minute break for the last 2.
I was feeling strong on these and managing the sequence with ease.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.(without letting go to switch arms).
1 x set of 3 pull ups as follows: One hand on campus rung 1, other hand on campus rung 4. Pull up to deep lock and lower back down - Repeat.
I did this for both arms.
8 x pull ups using middle and small rungs with arms as wide as possible. It's a good workout for upper pectoral muscles.
Hang on medium rung and do 15 leg raises.
1-3-5-7-9 again, but failed when reaching 11.
NOTE: The reason I decided to do this on the middle rungs is down to the fact that I feel that the large rungs don't offer much realism for what I'm aiming for.
The smaller rungs however are at the moment proving slightly more difficult for me, so I'm aiming to build up on the middle rungs for 2 weeks then incorporate the smaller rungs. I was speaking to a staff member who told me that the campus rungs are actually angled a few degrees steeper than normal. This means that you lose a fair bit of power and contact area when campussing. At other walls I find the smaller rungs absolutely fine, so it's nice to know that I'm not regressing in this respect.
Fingerboard
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
12 pull ups on large jugs.
I then did a quick link up on the 45' board, which consisted of climbing up a V5 and down a V0.
Overall I think this session went pretty well. I decided not to use the weight vest just yet due to wanting to get some skin growth back before I potential weight it with more mass.
I'm noticing gains on the campussing which is great and my power endurance has definitely increased.
Perhaps the biggest gain that I have currently noticed is that my recovery rate from being fully pumped to half pump has rapidly increased. This is meaning that I can attempt more problems and do more training for a longer period of time than I was able to a few weeks back.
Oh, I also bumped into Matt Helliker, the top alpine climber who was also fingerboard training. He's a thoroughly nice chap!
I plan to now have a rest day on Saturday and possibly climb Sunday afternoon.
Warm up
I climbed the following:
V0
V1
V2
V2
V3
1 x lap of 6c circuit on 45' board.
Bouldering
1 x ascent of 7a roof problem
Attempt on 7b roof problem - Fell on last move.
Attempt on 7c roof problem - Fell on same move as yesterday.
Interestingly the 7b roof problem is feeling much harder than the 7c, this is due to it being a longer problem of perhaps 30 moves into a crimpy finish that comes out of the roof onto an overhanging wall.
I spent about 45 minutes on these problems but decided to stop due to my skin wearing thin from the new holds. Climbing on sandpaper is probably a good comparison of how these holds feel!
Campus Board
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on middle rungs - I managed 5 sets of these today. I aimed for a 90 second break between the first 3, then a 3 minute break for the last 2.
I was feeling strong on these and managing the sequence with ease.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.(without letting go to switch arms).
1 x set of 3 pull ups as follows: One hand on campus rung 1, other hand on campus rung 4. Pull up to deep lock and lower back down - Repeat.
I did this for both arms.
8 x pull ups using middle and small rungs with arms as wide as possible. It's a good workout for upper pectoral muscles.
Hang on medium rung and do 15 leg raises.
1-3-5-7-9 again, but failed when reaching 11.
NOTE: The reason I decided to do this on the middle rungs is down to the fact that I feel that the large rungs don't offer much realism for what I'm aiming for.
The smaller rungs however are at the moment proving slightly more difficult for me, so I'm aiming to build up on the middle rungs for 2 weeks then incorporate the smaller rungs. I was speaking to a staff member who told me that the campus rungs are actually angled a few degrees steeper than normal. This means that you lose a fair bit of power and contact area when campussing. At other walls I find the smaller rungs absolutely fine, so it's nice to know that I'm not regressing in this respect.
Fingerboard
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
12 pull ups on large jugs.
I then did a quick link up on the 45' board, which consisted of climbing up a V5 and down a V0.
Overall I think this session went pretty well. I decided not to use the weight vest just yet due to wanting to get some skin growth back before I potential weight it with more mass.
I'm noticing gains on the campussing which is great and my power endurance has definitely increased.
Perhaps the biggest gain that I have currently noticed is that my recovery rate from being fully pumped to half pump has rapidly increased. This is meaning that I can attempt more problems and do more training for a longer period of time than I was able to a few weeks back.
Oh, I also bumped into Matt Helliker, the top alpine climber who was also fingerboard training. He's a thoroughly nice chap!
I plan to now have a rest day on Saturday and possibly climb Sunday afternoon.
Thursday 20 June 2013
20/06/13 session
I was planning on taking a rest day today but headed to the wall for about 90 minutes to have a go on the new roof problems.
I managed to almost on-sight the roof 7c, I fell off 2 moves before the end. But this will definitely go next session, I'm sure of it.
There is also an 8b roof problem, that I tried. The first section is great and involves a jump start to a big hold which you then bat hang, you then move from the bat hang into the roof section. This is where I was failing. The move to the volume in the roof, basically takes core tension that would be more akin to front lever territory. So it seems that I'm back to core training for a while so I can do this problem. I think it will be fairly possible after I've got this move sorted.
Fortunately conditions are improving now and the humidity has been dropping, so my plan is to have a proper power session tomorrow and see how I get on. I shall also be getting out the weight vest. I'm thinking of using about 5kg and climbing the problems in the v3-v5 range and doing about 5 sets. I'll update tomorrow.
My psyche is high at the moment and I'm excited to get back north and on the limestone to see if this training is paying off.
I managed to almost on-sight the roof 7c, I fell off 2 moves before the end. But this will definitely go next session, I'm sure of it.
There is also an 8b roof problem, that I tried. The first section is great and involves a jump start to a big hold which you then bat hang, you then move from the bat hang into the roof section. This is where I was failing. The move to the volume in the roof, basically takes core tension that would be more akin to front lever territory. So it seems that I'm back to core training for a while so I can do this problem. I think it will be fairly possible after I've got this move sorted.
Fortunately conditions are improving now and the humidity has been dropping, so my plan is to have a proper power session tomorrow and see how I get on. I shall also be getting out the weight vest. I'm thinking of using about 5kg and climbing the problems in the v3-v5 range and doing about 5 sets. I'll update tomorrow.
My psyche is high at the moment and I'm excited to get back north and on the limestone to see if this training is paying off.
Wednesday 19 June 2013
18/06/13 Session
I went for a session today which lasted only 2 hours. Unfortunately conditions (indoors, yes... It's crazy...)are terrible. It's been very humid for about 4 days now and there is no end in sight currently. The humidity is about 80% at the moment so even doing a 10 move problem is causing overheating.
Anyway, I did the following:
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
1 x ascent of 7a roof problem
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on middle rungs.
Overall this was a slow session, but as mentioned the humidity really caused problems for attempting stuff.
Anyway, I did the following:
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
1 x ascent of 7a roof problem
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on middle rungs.
Overall this was a slow session, but as mentioned the humidity really caused problems for attempting stuff.
Saturday 15 June 2013
14/06/13 Session and info
I had a session today which was more of a free session, I decided not to do any training specifically but to attempt problems on the board that interested me. I think I'll incorporate a session like this into my training each week, just so I don't end up only training.
I made progress on the V10 project which is great, hopefully when my skin is fully better after the 2 days off this weekend I should be making more progress.
A lot of my sessions on the board are aimed at training to get back onto the limestone and being ready to climb some harder stuff this summer. I'll probably be climbing a lot of Gaskins problems so I'm currently working on body tension and crimp style problems, I've been mixing in compression as well to get a well rounded session.
I'll try and get some photos of the problems when I get chance.
I made progress on the V10 project which is great, hopefully when my skin is fully better after the 2 days off this weekend I should be making more progress.
A lot of my sessions on the board are aimed at training to get back onto the limestone and being ready to climb some harder stuff this summer. I'll probably be climbing a lot of Gaskins problems so I'm currently working on body tension and crimp style problems, I've been mixing in compression as well to get a well rounded session.
I'll try and get some photos of the problems when I get chance.
13/06/13 - Rest day session...
I had a rest day today due to skin feeling very thin indeed!
I did 5 sets of 10 slow pull ups.
Even on a rest day I'm wanting to climb at the moment!
I did 5 sets of 10 slow pull ups.
Even on a rest day I'm wanting to climb at the moment!
Wednesday 12 June 2013
12/06/13 Session
I decided to have a short session today due to the workout yesterday.
It was mainly a session of attempting problems on the 45' board with a few friends. Most of the moves were around v6/v7 range so not too trying but still fun to play on.
I climb the roof 6b and 7b+ as well.
Before I left I decided to do a few pull ups on the beastmaker 1000, so did 30 on the large hand holds.
A very relaxed session, but nice to have a break from training.
It was mainly a session of attempting problems on the 45' board with a few friends. Most of the moves were around v6/v7 range so not too trying but still fun to play on.
I climb the roof 6b and 7b+ as well.
Before I left I decided to do a few pull ups on the beastmaker 1000, so did 30 on the large hand holds.
A very relaxed session, but nice to have a break from training.
Tuesday 11 June 2013
11/06/13 - Power session
I had a 3 hour session today with a mixed workout. It's listed below:
Climbed a roof problem graded 6b for a warm up, it consists of mainly roof climbing and is about 30 moves long.
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
I managed 4 of these today and still felt good, I can already notice a difference since the weekend.
20 minute rest.
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
I switched the holds slightly today to make this a bit harder and focused on using the smallest footholds on the board, this could potentially bump the grade up slightly.
I then decided to have a play around on the board and attempted a few problems I made up around V7-V10. Generally I'm noticing progression already on these problems. I have a project that is about V10 I think and today I managed to get further than previously on it and without a struggle. This part of the session lasted about 60 minutes.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm was feeling weak and only managed about 3 seconds.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7 on small rungs. By this point I was very tired and planning to leave. But I decided to carry on and do a few more exercises.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
Notes:
Today's session was tiring. I reckon this is down to the extra sets on the endurance circuits and the fact I reduced the rest time on the second set of the circuit. It was also exceedingly warm today at the climbing centre, so doing any movement was proving to be exhausting. All in, I think it was a good session. I'm seeing progression already and can focus my sessions much better. I'm debating whether to climb tomorrow or take a rest day due to skin tenderness, but will decide in due course.
I also decided to carry on for another 30 minutes today, even when I felt at my most tired. I think I noticed a better technique forming in this period for campussing and fingerboard pull ups due to already being tired.
I once read somewhere that to become a great climber, one must carry on going when others would pack up and leave. I'm starting to see the logic in this statement.
Climbed a roof problem graded 6b for a warm up, it consists of mainly roof climbing and is about 30 moves long.
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
I managed 4 of these today and still felt good, I can already notice a difference since the weekend.
20 minute rest.
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
I switched the holds slightly today to make this a bit harder and focused on using the smallest footholds on the board, this could potentially bump the grade up slightly.
I then decided to have a play around on the board and attempted a few problems I made up around V7-V10. Generally I'm noticing progression already on these problems. I have a project that is about V10 I think and today I managed to get further than previously on it and without a struggle. This part of the session lasted about 60 minutes.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm was feeling weak and only managed about 3 seconds.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7 on small rungs. By this point I was very tired and planning to leave. But I decided to carry on and do a few more exercises.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
Notes:
Today's session was tiring. I reckon this is down to the extra sets on the endurance circuits and the fact I reduced the rest time on the second set of the circuit. It was also exceedingly warm today at the climbing centre, so doing any movement was proving to be exhausting. All in, I think it was a good session. I'm seeing progression already and can focus my sessions much better. I'm debating whether to climb tomorrow or take a rest day due to skin tenderness, but will decide in due course.
I also decided to carry on for another 30 minutes today, even when I felt at my most tired. I think I noticed a better technique forming in this period for campussing and fingerboard pull ups due to already being tired.
I once read somewhere that to become a great climber, one must carry on going when others would pack up and leave. I'm starting to see the logic in this statement.
Sunday 9 June 2013
09/06/13 - Training session
Today I went for another training session with a bit more focus on finger strength.
Session shown below:
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
1 x lap of 7a circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
3 x pull-ups on 35 degree slope
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm twice.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs(Fell off going for 11) Attempted again, but failed at 11. I reckon this will be fine when fresh,since I used to do it every session.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Failed when reversing from 5 on both arms. Small rungs.
1-4-6 on Large rungs x 2. ( I intend to be doing 1-4-7 again by next week).
Extra
30 press-ups
Session shown below:
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
1 x lap of 7a circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
3 x pull-ups on 35 degree slope
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm twice.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs(Fell off going for 11) Attempted again, but failed at 11. I reckon this will be fine when fresh,since I used to do it every session.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Failed when reversing from 5 on both arms. Small rungs.
1-4-6 on Large rungs x 2. ( I intend to be doing 1-4-7 again by next week).
Extra
30 press-ups
08/06/13 Session - Power endurance
I went climbing today with my friend Andre, our aim was to train power endurance and we certainly did!
We started off bouldering for a warm up, this was a mix of easy problems and then a few V6's.
We then went over to the 45' board and did the following:
Board training
Climb a V6, climb down a V0, climb up a V4. These work out at about 30 moves. The V6 is quite stiff for the grade and very crimpy, as is the V4.
We'd climb this sequence of problems, jump down and have 4 minutes rest. Then repeat. We did 4 sets of these, then took a 25 minutes break.
We then created a new circuit of about 30 moves that was also about V6 in grade, we did the problem, 4 minutes rest, repeat for 3 sets.
By this point Andre's skin was depleting rapidly so we started to cool down.
I did a few campus pull ups but then left. It was a good session for getting back into proper power endurance training.
Starting over...
Well after having almost a year or more of constant injuries relating to climbing and not relating to climbing. I'm finally fixed and have started training again.
Over the past 5 weeks I've been training power endurance indoors on a bouldering roof and mixing in some 45' board climbing as well. Sessions generally went as listed below:
Roof problems:
I'd climb the f6c+, jump off, then jump straight back onto the f7a and complete that one. These are both about 30 move problems, with the majority of climbing across a roof.
After a 2 minute rest I'd get back on and climb the f7b+, then rest for a further 5 minutes.
I'd then climb the f7c+ and rest for about 5minutes again.
I did all these in under 10-15minutes at the start due to getting pumped so much. I now do them all as listed above. This works well as my warm up.
This may not sound like much, but my power endurance was shocking from doing short 10 move problems for years. Each problem listed above is about 30+ moves and predominantly roof climbing.
Board climbing
The board climbing I've been doing has mainly been on problems I've created between V6-V8, which are generally a very wide style and a mix of pinches and crimps.
I've also got a project that's above V10, which is made up of big moves on very small crimps. I can currently do half the problem but the top section is proving difficult due to sore skin.
Over the past 5 weeks I've been training power endurance indoors on a bouldering roof and mixing in some 45' board climbing as well. Sessions generally went as listed below:
Roof problems:
I'd climb the f6c+, jump off, then jump straight back onto the f7a and complete that one. These are both about 30 move problems, with the majority of climbing across a roof.
After a 2 minute rest I'd get back on and climb the f7b+, then rest for a further 5 minutes.
I'd then climb the f7c+ and rest for about 5minutes again.
I did all these in under 10-15minutes at the start due to getting pumped so much. I now do them all as listed above. This works well as my warm up.
This may not sound like much, but my power endurance was shocking from doing short 10 move problems for years. Each problem listed above is about 30+ moves and predominantly roof climbing.
Board climbing
The board climbing I've been doing has mainly been on problems I've created between V6-V8, which are generally a very wide style and a mix of pinches and crimps.
I've also got a project that's above V10, which is made up of big moves on very small crimps. I can currently do half the problem but the top section is proving difficult due to sore skin.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)