Well after 3 days of rest due to my finger tip pulling up, I decided to have a session today. My nail was feeling fine and my skin thickness had increased do it looked like a good session was to be had.
The session went as follows:
1 x ascent of roof 6b+ (25+ moves)
1 x ascent of roof 6c+ (25+ moves)
Bouldered a V2 and V3 boulder problem.
Climbed a roof V4 boulder problem.
I then decided to rest for 10 minutes and then it happened...
I climbed the roof 7c problem after dropping the last move a few times on Tuesday. The problem felt easy and flowed very well, I think the fact I worked out a better sequence for part of the roof section really helped on keeping the power for the last move crux.
I then decided to attempt the 8b roof problem, I managed to hold the front lever style, pull out of a bat hang move and work out the main roof section. So hopefully I've got 3/4's of the roof sorted now and it's just the final section that pulls out of the roof up a 20' overhanging wall. There is one move here that feels about V5/V6 which I reckon will be the stopper, after the previous 17 moves leading up to it. So I plan to work this over the next week or so and get it dialled so that I can do this problem quickly.
45' board climbing
After spending about an hour on the roof I decided to try some board problems that I'd created. A load of new holds have been added to the board recently which has opened up a lot of possibilities for new problems.
I managed to climb a problem that is about V6 involving very wide side pull snatching moves to a big lunge for sloper. This is a good problem for training compression and worked well.
I did a few more problems around this grade and also started trying a new project that looks to be about V9/V10, it involves a mix of everything, with a side pull(left hand) sit start lunging to a sloping crimp(right hand), you then switch the side pull to an undercut and throw your right hand to a gaston, then get a high right foot and power through to a small crimp again. This section is pretty hard and will take a few sessions to complete.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
1-3-5-7-9-10 on large rungs (By this point I was very tired and decided to leave the campus session for next time).
The session lasted about 3 hours 15 minutes. I tried to limit rest times as much as possible and keep trying stuff during this whole period.
With regards to my progression; I'm finding a very big increase in power endurance especially on the roof problems. I'm also noticing more crimping power on the 45' board, which is allowing me to train much crimpier problems. Since I've been trying a lot of wide move problems I've also noticed a big improvement in being stabilised on wide moves.
All in all, the training is definitely working and I'm psyched to test it out on real rock this summer.
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