11/06/13 - Power session

I had a 3 hour session today with a mixed workout. It's listed below:

Climbed a roof problem graded 6b for a warm up, it consists of mainly roof climbing and is about 30 moves long.

45' Board training

1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit

Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)

4 minute rest

Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)

4 minute rest

Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)

4 minute rest

Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)

4 minute rest

I managed 4 of these today and still felt good, I can already notice a difference since the weekend.

20 minute rest.


30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).

3 minute rest

30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).

3 minute rest

30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).

I switched the holds slightly today to make this a bit harder and focused on using the smallest footholds on the board, this could potentially bump the grade up slightly.

I then decided to have a play around on the board and attempted a few problems I made up around V7-V10. Generally I'm noticing progression already on these problems. I have a project that is about V10 I think and today I managed to get further than previously on it and without a struggle. This part of the session lasted about 60 minutes.

Fingerboard training

5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.

5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:

- Large flat edges

- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket

- Deep 3 finger pocket

- Deep 2 finger pocket

- Small edge

- Sloping 2 finger pocket

5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm was feeling weak and only managed about 3 seconds.

Campus training

1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs

1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs

1-3-5-7 on small rungs. By this point I was very tired and planning to leave. But I decided to carry on and do a few more exercises.


1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.

1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.

Notes:

Today's session was tiring. I reckon this is down to the extra sets on the endurance circuits and the fact I reduced the rest time on the second set of the circuit. It was also exceedingly warm today at the climbing centre, so doing any movement was proving to be exhausting. All in, I think it was a good session. I'm seeing progression already and can focus my sessions much better. I'm debating whether to climb tomorrow or take a rest day due to skin tenderness, but will decide in due course.

I also decided to carry on for another 30 minutes today, even when I felt at my most tired. I think I noticed a better technique forming in this period for campussing and fingerboard pull ups due to already being tired.

I once read somewhere that to become a great climber, one must carry on going when others would pack up and leave. I'm starting to see the logic in this statement.