I had a session at Craggy2 today which went really well. I managed to finally work out a move on the font7c+, which involves a simultaneous toe hook and heel hook while throwing up for a sloper on a very steep overhang. Hopefully next session I shall managed to climb the whole thing in one go. So hopefully 3 sessions and it's done!
I also spent a lot of time creating my own problems to try, which involved lots of hard gaston/press moves that are almost at full reach, so it makes you really have to use your shoulders on the problems.
I then finished off the session with the following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs - I managed all of this in under 5 minutes without really getting pumped!
I then did a set of 1-5 and reverse with both hands separately on all 3 sets of rungs, this is the same as mentioned in a previous post. So one hand on and one foot on a small foothold below the campus board. The smallest rungs are trickier to hold as expected and holding the 5th rung is quite tricky.
Nail bed update/ Chalk update
Interestingly after having a 2hour session I had no nail problems today and no pain at all in my fingers. I think this is definitely down to the change in chalk that I have been using. I shall keep track of this over the next few weeks and make notes for each session. It seems all I needed after all was pure old Magnesium Carbonate.
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