I headed down to Craggy2 for a session yesterday, I had decided beforehand to tape over the nail injury and see if I could still climb on it. The result... I could! So I climbed quite a few problems up to about v6, it seemed anything harder than v6 I wasn't able to climb due to lack of friction with the tape on my finger.
I decided to then go and have a campus session, and managed to following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs.
I then decided to do doubles up the medium sized rungs and managed 1-9.
I then tried something new, basically I kept 1 foot (Lets say right foot) on a foothold below the campus board and with my (right) hand I would then go up the campus board one hand only up to the fifth rung and reverse it. I did this for both hands/feet on each set of rung sizes. The smallest rungs are quite tricky.
It seems to be quite a good exercise for body tension and contact strength for when you lunge for holds with only one hand.
I think I shall now incorporate this into my training routine and hopefully it will help for those pesky lunging climbing moves...
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