I popped down to Craggy2 last night to try out some of their new problems, generally it was a pretty fun session. I managed quite a lot of font6c/7a's first go, and almost on-sighted a font7b(Considering Craggy2 has the hardest setting in London, possibly anywhere I've climbed actually, I'm quite impressed with myself!).
I'm starting to realise that I need to really get back into lock off training though, while I can lock off quite easily, I need to start training this with full body locks on a steep board. I'm thinking maybe on the 40' at Westway that I try holding hard gaston/crimp/pocket/side pull moves for a certain amount of time until failure, in the hope of improving locking strength on steeper things. Plus it's good for your core!
We should hopefully be getting the holds to build the systems board at Westway either tomorrow, or next week. So I'm going to start training on that a lot as well, possibly incorporating it into campus/fingerboard session when I'm there.
Today's a rest day, but I'm popping back to Craggy2 tomorrow to try all the other new stuff being set today. Hopefully there shall be some font 7c's/7c+'s up by then! :)
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