21/06/13 Session

Today's session went pretty well. It went as follows:

Warm up

I climbed the following:

V0
V1
V2
V2
V3

1 x lap of 6c circuit on 45' board.

Bouldering

1 x ascent of 7a roof problem

Attempt on 7b roof problem - Fell on last move.

Attempt on 7c roof problem - Fell on same move as yesterday.

Interestingly the 7b roof problem is feeling much harder than the 7c, this is due to it being a longer problem of perhaps 30 moves into a crimpy finish that comes out of the roof onto an overhanging wall.

I spent about 45 minutes on these problems but decided to stop due to my skin wearing thin from the new holds. Climbing on sandpaper is probably a good comparison of how these holds feel!

Campus Board

1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on middle rungs - I managed 5 sets of these today. I aimed for a 90 second break between the first 3, then a 3 minute break for the last 2.

I was feeling strong on these and managing the sequence with ease.

1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.(without letting go to switch arms).

1 x set of 3 pull ups as follows: One hand on campus rung 1, other hand on campus rung 4. Pull up to deep lock and lower back down - Repeat.

I did this for both arms.

8 x pull ups using middle and small rungs with arms as wide as possible. It's a good workout for upper pectoral muscles.

Hang on medium rung and do 15 leg raises.

1-3-5-7-9 again, but failed when reaching 11.

NOTE: The reason I decided to do this on the middle rungs is down to the fact that I feel that the large rungs don't offer much realism for what I'm aiming for.

The smaller rungs however are at the moment proving slightly more difficult for me, so I'm aiming to build up on the middle rungs for 2 weeks then incorporate the smaller rungs. I was speaking to a staff member who told me that the campus rungs are actually angled a few degrees steeper than normal. This means that you lose a fair bit of power and contact area when campussing. At other walls I find the smaller rungs absolutely fine, so it's nice to know that I'm not regressing in this respect.

Fingerboard

5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.

12 pull ups on large jugs.

I then did a quick link up on the 45' board, which consisted of climbing up a V5 and down a V0.


Overall I think this session went pretty well. I decided not to use the weight vest just yet due to wanting to get some skin growth back before I potential weight it with more mass.

I'm noticing gains on the campussing which is great and my power endurance has definitely increased.

Perhaps the biggest gain that I have currently noticed is that my recovery rate from being fully pumped to half pump has rapidly increased. This is meaning that I can attempt more problems and do more training for a longer period of time than I was able to a few weeks back.

Oh, I also bumped into Matt Helliker, the top alpine climber who was also fingerboard training. He's a thoroughly nice chap!

I plan to now have a rest day on Saturday and possibly climb Sunday afternoon.