20/06/13 session

I was planning on taking a rest day today but headed to the wall for about 90 minutes to have a go on the new roof problems.

I managed to almost on-sight the roof 7c, I fell off 2 moves before the end. But this will definitely go next session, I'm sure of it.

There is also an 8b roof problem, that I tried. The first section is great and involves a jump start to a big hold which you then bat hang, you then move from the bat hang into the roof section. This is where I was failing. The move to the volume in the roof, basically takes core tension that would be more akin to front lever territory. So it seems that I'm back to core training for a while so I can do this problem. I think it will be fairly possible after I've got this move sorted.

Fortunately conditions are improving now and the humidity has been dropping, so my plan is to have a proper power session tomorrow and see how I get on. I shall also be getting out the weight vest. I'm thinking of using about 5kg and climbing the problems in the v3-v5 range and doing about 5 sets. I'll update tomorrow.

My psyche is high at the moment and I'm excited to get back north and on the limestone to see if this training is paying off.