I had a session today which was more of a free session, I decided not to do any training specifically but to attempt problems on the board that interested me. I think I'll incorporate a session like this into my training each week, just so I don't end up only training.
I made progress on the V10 project which is great, hopefully when my skin is fully better after the 2 days off this weekend I should be making more progress.
A lot of my sessions on the board are aimed at training to get back onto the limestone and being ready to climb some harder stuff this summer. I'll probably be climbing a lot of Gaskins problems so I'm currently working on body tension and crimp style problems, I've been mixing in compression as well to get a well rounded session.
I'll try and get some photos of the problems when I get chance.
Saturday, 15 June 2013
13/06/13 - Rest day session...
I had a rest day today due to skin feeling very thin indeed!
I did 5 sets of 10 slow pull ups.
Even on a rest day I'm wanting to climb at the moment!
I did 5 sets of 10 slow pull ups.
Even on a rest day I'm wanting to climb at the moment!
Wednesday, 12 June 2013
12/06/13 Session
I decided to have a short session today due to the workout yesterday.
It was mainly a session of attempting problems on the 45' board with a few friends. Most of the moves were around v6/v7 range so not too trying but still fun to play on.
I climb the roof 6b and 7b+ as well.
Before I left I decided to do a few pull ups on the beastmaker 1000, so did 30 on the large hand holds.
A very relaxed session, but nice to have a break from training.
It was mainly a session of attempting problems on the 45' board with a few friends. Most of the moves were around v6/v7 range so not too trying but still fun to play on.
I climb the roof 6b and 7b+ as well.
Before I left I decided to do a few pull ups on the beastmaker 1000, so did 30 on the large hand holds.
A very relaxed session, but nice to have a break from training.
Tuesday, 11 June 2013
11/06/13 - Power session
I had a 3 hour session today with a mixed workout. It's listed below:
Climbed a roof problem graded 6b for a warm up, it consists of mainly roof climbing and is about 30 moves long.
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
I managed 4 of these today and still felt good, I can already notice a difference since the weekend.
20 minute rest.
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
I switched the holds slightly today to make this a bit harder and focused on using the smallest footholds on the board, this could potentially bump the grade up slightly.
I then decided to have a play around on the board and attempted a few problems I made up around V7-V10. Generally I'm noticing progression already on these problems. I have a project that is about V10 I think and today I managed to get further than previously on it and without a struggle. This part of the session lasted about 60 minutes.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm was feeling weak and only managed about 3 seconds.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7 on small rungs. By this point I was very tired and planning to leave. But I decided to carry on and do a few more exercises.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
Notes:
Today's session was tiring. I reckon this is down to the extra sets on the endurance circuits and the fact I reduced the rest time on the second set of the circuit. It was also exceedingly warm today at the climbing centre, so doing any movement was proving to be exhausting. All in, I think it was a good session. I'm seeing progression already and can focus my sessions much better. I'm debating whether to climb tomorrow or take a rest day due to skin tenderness, but will decide in due course.
I also decided to carry on for another 30 minutes today, even when I felt at my most tired. I think I noticed a better technique forming in this period for campussing and fingerboard pull ups due to already being tired.
I once read somewhere that to become a great climber, one must carry on going when others would pack up and leave. I'm starting to see the logic in this statement.
Climbed a roof problem graded 6b for a warm up, it consists of mainly roof climbing and is about 30 moves long.
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
I managed 4 of these today and still felt good, I can already notice a difference since the weekend.
20 minute rest.
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
3 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
I switched the holds slightly today to make this a bit harder and focused on using the smallest footholds on the board, this could potentially bump the grade up slightly.
I then decided to have a play around on the board and attempted a few problems I made up around V7-V10. Generally I'm noticing progression already on these problems. I have a project that is about V10 I think and today I managed to get further than previously on it and without a struggle. This part of the session lasted about 60 minutes.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm was feeling weak and only managed about 3 seconds.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7 on small rungs. By this point I was very tired and planning to leave. But I decided to carry on and do a few more exercises.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
Notes:
Today's session was tiring. I reckon this is down to the extra sets on the endurance circuits and the fact I reduced the rest time on the second set of the circuit. It was also exceedingly warm today at the climbing centre, so doing any movement was proving to be exhausting. All in, I think it was a good session. I'm seeing progression already and can focus my sessions much better. I'm debating whether to climb tomorrow or take a rest day due to skin tenderness, but will decide in due course.
I also decided to carry on for another 30 minutes today, even when I felt at my most tired. I think I noticed a better technique forming in this period for campussing and fingerboard pull ups due to already being tired.
I once read somewhere that to become a great climber, one must carry on going when others would pack up and leave. I'm starting to see the logic in this statement.
Sunday, 9 June 2013
09/06/13 - Training session
Today I went for another training session with a bit more focus on finger strength.
Session shown below:
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
1 x lap of 7a circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
3 x pull-ups on 35 degree slope
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm twice.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs(Fell off going for 11) Attempted again, but failed at 11. I reckon this will be fine when fresh,since I used to do it every session.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Failed when reversing from 5 on both arms. Small rungs.
1-4-6 on Large rungs x 2. ( I intend to be doing 1-4-7 again by next week).
Extra
30 press-ups
Session shown below:
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
1 x lap of 7a circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
3 x pull-ups on 35 degree slope
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm twice.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs(Fell off going for 11) Attempted again, but failed at 11. I reckon this will be fine when fresh,since I used to do it every session.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Failed when reversing from 5 on both arms. Small rungs.
1-4-6 on Large rungs x 2. ( I intend to be doing 1-4-7 again by next week).
Extra
30 press-ups
08/06/13 Session - Power endurance
I went climbing today with my friend Andre, our aim was to train power endurance and we certainly did!
We started off bouldering for a warm up, this was a mix of easy problems and then a few V6's.
We then went over to the 45' board and did the following:
Board training
Climb a V6, climb down a V0, climb up a V4. These work out at about 30 moves. The V6 is quite stiff for the grade and very crimpy, as is the V4.
We'd climb this sequence of problems, jump down and have 4 minutes rest. Then repeat. We did 4 sets of these, then took a 25 minutes break.
We then created a new circuit of about 30 moves that was also about V6 in grade, we did the problem, 4 minutes rest, repeat for 3 sets.
By this point Andre's skin was depleting rapidly so we started to cool down.
I did a few campus pull ups but then left. It was a good session for getting back into proper power endurance training.
Starting over...
Well after having almost a year or more of constant injuries relating to climbing and not relating to climbing. I'm finally fixed and have started training again.
Over the past 5 weeks I've been training power endurance indoors on a bouldering roof and mixing in some 45' board climbing as well. Sessions generally went as listed below:
Roof problems:
I'd climb the f6c+, jump off, then jump straight back onto the f7a and complete that one. These are both about 30 move problems, with the majority of climbing across a roof.
After a 2 minute rest I'd get back on and climb the f7b+, then rest for a further 5 minutes.
I'd then climb the f7c+ and rest for about 5minutes again.
I did all these in under 10-15minutes at the start due to getting pumped so much. I now do them all as listed above. This works well as my warm up.
This may not sound like much, but my power endurance was shocking from doing short 10 move problems for years. Each problem listed above is about 30+ moves and predominantly roof climbing.
Board climbing
The board climbing I've been doing has mainly been on problems I've created between V6-V8, which are generally a very wide style and a mix of pinches and crimps.
I've also got a project that's above V10, which is made up of big moves on very small crimps. I can currently do half the problem but the top section is proving difficult due to sore skin.
Over the past 5 weeks I've been training power endurance indoors on a bouldering roof and mixing in some 45' board climbing as well. Sessions generally went as listed below:
Roof problems:
I'd climb the f6c+, jump off, then jump straight back onto the f7a and complete that one. These are both about 30 move problems, with the majority of climbing across a roof.
After a 2 minute rest I'd get back on and climb the f7b+, then rest for a further 5 minutes.
I'd then climb the f7c+ and rest for about 5minutes again.
I did all these in under 10-15minutes at the start due to getting pumped so much. I now do them all as listed above. This works well as my warm up.
This may not sound like much, but my power endurance was shocking from doing short 10 move problems for years. Each problem listed above is about 30+ moves and predominantly roof climbing.
Board climbing
The board climbing I've been doing has mainly been on problems I've created between V6-V8, which are generally a very wide style and a mix of pinches and crimps.
I've also got a project that's above V10, which is made up of big moves on very small crimps. I can currently do half the problem but the top section is proving difficult due to sore skin.
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