Today I went for another training session with a bit more focus on finger strength.
Session shown below:
45' Board training
1 x lap of 6a circuit
1 x lap of 6c circuit
1 x lap of 7a circuit
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
Up V6, down V0, up V4 (30 move sequence)
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
4 minute rest
30 move V6 problem (involves going diagonally from bottom left to top right of board, reverse a V0, then diagonally bottom right to top left).
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
5 pull-ups on following holds on Beastmaker 2000:
- Large flat edges
- Deep (Back 2) 2 finger pocket
- Deep 3 finger pocket
- Deep 2 finger pocket
- Small edge
- Sloping 2 finger pocket
3 x pull-ups on 35 degree slope
5 second 90 degree one arm lock off on Beastmaker 1000 jug. Right arm twice and left arm twice.
Campus training
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on medium rungs
1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs(Fell off going for 11) Attempted again, but failed at 11. I reckon this will be fine when fresh,since I used to do it every session.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Large rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 reverse with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Both arms completed. Medium rungs.
1-2-3-4-5 with one arm on lowest rung, while other arms bumps up. Failed when reversing from 5 on both arms. Small rungs.
1-4-6 on Large rungs x 2. ( I intend to be doing 1-4-7 again by next week).
Extra
30 press-ups
Sunday, 9 June 2013
08/06/13 Session - Power endurance
I went climbing today with my friend Andre, our aim was to train power endurance and we certainly did!
We started off bouldering for a warm up, this was a mix of easy problems and then a few V6's.
We then went over to the 45' board and did the following:
Board training
Climb a V6, climb down a V0, climb up a V4. These work out at about 30 moves. The V6 is quite stiff for the grade and very crimpy, as is the V4.
We'd climb this sequence of problems, jump down and have 4 minutes rest. Then repeat. We did 4 sets of these, then took a 25 minutes break.
We then created a new circuit of about 30 moves that was also about V6 in grade, we did the problem, 4 minutes rest, repeat for 3 sets.
By this point Andre's skin was depleting rapidly so we started to cool down.
I did a few campus pull ups but then left. It was a good session for getting back into proper power endurance training.
Starting over...
Well after having almost a year or more of constant injuries relating to climbing and not relating to climbing. I'm finally fixed and have started training again.
Over the past 5 weeks I've been training power endurance indoors on a bouldering roof and mixing in some 45' board climbing as well. Sessions generally went as listed below:
Roof problems:
I'd climb the f6c+, jump off, then jump straight back onto the f7a and complete that one. These are both about 30 move problems, with the majority of climbing across a roof.
After a 2 minute rest I'd get back on and climb the f7b+, then rest for a further 5 minutes.
I'd then climb the f7c+ and rest for about 5minutes again.
I did all these in under 10-15minutes at the start due to getting pumped so much. I now do them all as listed above. This works well as my warm up.
This may not sound like much, but my power endurance was shocking from doing short 10 move problems for years. Each problem listed above is about 30+ moves and predominantly roof climbing.
Board climbing
The board climbing I've been doing has mainly been on problems I've created between V6-V8, which are generally a very wide style and a mix of pinches and crimps.
I've also got a project that's above V10, which is made up of big moves on very small crimps. I can currently do half the problem but the top section is proving difficult due to sore skin.
Over the past 5 weeks I've been training power endurance indoors on a bouldering roof and mixing in some 45' board climbing as well. Sessions generally went as listed below:
Roof problems:
I'd climb the f6c+, jump off, then jump straight back onto the f7a and complete that one. These are both about 30 move problems, with the majority of climbing across a roof.
After a 2 minute rest I'd get back on and climb the f7b+, then rest for a further 5 minutes.
I'd then climb the f7c+ and rest for about 5minutes again.
I did all these in under 10-15minutes at the start due to getting pumped so much. I now do them all as listed above. This works well as my warm up.
This may not sound like much, but my power endurance was shocking from doing short 10 move problems for years. Each problem listed above is about 30+ moves and predominantly roof climbing.
Board climbing
The board climbing I've been doing has mainly been on problems I've created between V6-V8, which are generally a very wide style and a mix of pinches and crimps.
I've also got a project that's above V10, which is made up of big moves on very small crimps. I can currently do half the problem but the top section is proving difficult due to sore skin.
Friday, 27 April 2012
Re-start
Well the blog diary has got neglected the past month due to my Dad falling ill and being very busy at work. However I have more time now, so here's an update.
I've been climbing again quite a bit lately, this week I've had 4 sessions up to now, all at Craggy2. With the mass of new problems that have been put up I've been down there quite a bit trying them.
Anyway back to training:
Campus boarding 1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs in under 5 minutes seems to be easy now. Even after a break.
I've also been doing a few power endurance sessions:
- 5 minutes climbing as many problems as possible(Grades V0-V5)
- 5minute rest
- Repeat first step, but on different problems.
This seems to give a good forearm pump which gradually reduces the more times you do it. In effect giving you a quicker recovery time.
Core Workout tonight (27/04/12)
- 40 press ups
- 35 leg raise crunches (Lie on back, shoulders on floor. Keep legs straight while lying on back and bring to 90' and return to floor slowly)
- 3 x 60 second leg raises while lying on stomach.
- 5 x 15 second leg raises on bar.
I've been climbing again quite a bit lately, this week I've had 4 sessions up to now, all at Craggy2. With the mass of new problems that have been put up I've been down there quite a bit trying them.
Anyway back to training:
Campus boarding 1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs in under 5 minutes seems to be easy now. Even after a break.
I've also been doing a few power endurance sessions:
- 5 minutes climbing as many problems as possible(Grades V0-V5)
- 5minute rest
- Repeat first step, but on different problems.
This seems to give a good forearm pump which gradually reduces the more times you do it. In effect giving you a quicker recovery time.
Core Workout tonight (27/04/12)
- 40 press ups
- 35 leg raise crunches (Lie on back, shoulders on floor. Keep legs straight while lying on back and bring to 90' and return to floor slowly)
- 3 x 60 second leg raises while lying on stomach.
- 5 x 15 second leg raises on bar.
Sunday, 18 March 2012
18/03/2012 - Font 7c!
I had a session at Craig y longridge today. My plan was to first see if it was dry and then attempt to climb at least one 7c. After about a dozen goes on a problem called ' In Excess SDS' I finally managed to climb the problem, which is a mix of razor sharp crimps and wide pinches, you then have foot locks and egyptians to contend with to make it through the crux.
It was a great problem to finally climb and is very much my style. The problems goes up the line where this guys feet are, it's basically straight up and is hard to see in that photo, the holds are there, honest!
It's my first font7c of the year, so I'm happy!
It was a great problem to finally climb and is very much my style. The problems goes up the line where this guys feet are, it's basically straight up and is hard to see in that photo, the holds are there, honest!
It's my first font7c of the year, so I'm happy!
Catch up and crushing!
I've been a bit busy lately and unfortunately haven't been recording my climbs as I had liked to. But here is a quick history of the past few weeks:
07/03/2012
Craggy island session: I went climbing with my friend Rob who is currently beasting through the SIBL comps and HSBC comps in London. We went and tried the new problems that have been put up at Craggy2 in the rock room. Overall it was a good session and lasted for about 3hours. I even managed to climb a few hard things!
08/03/2012-09/03/2012
I spent these days re-setting the Fridge at Westway with Slim and Tricky, this was quite a fun set due to us being allowed to set lots of harder problems above v6. We managed to get 30 problems up on the first day with 3 of us, and then a further 17 on the second day with 2 of us setting. There's quite a bit of harder stuff in their now and quite a lot of problems in the mid grades as well. Unfortunately due to the new revolution holds we were using, I ran out of skin by the morning of the second day! So testing the problems later on proved to be painful!
13/03/2012
I'm back home for a few days so managed to get outdoors to Trowbarrow in the south lakes, I was hoping to try and work a font8a up there, but the holds were very damp and so I only ended up spending an hour climbing there, and then decided to head home. A short but sweet session.
14/03/2012
Due to bad weather I headed indoors to Westview leisure centre where I tried out the new problems. The session started badly with me falling off a v3! After a little pep talk I managed to then on-sight all but 1 of the problems up to v8. I then attempted the v8+'s which were left over from the NIBL comp, one of the problems involves a weird horizontal hanging sequence which I find difficult with my height. So I tried a more direct variation skipping a foothold, which enabled me to get very high on the problem into the second crux, unfortunately I ran out of skin so decided it was time to head home.
07/03/2012
Craggy island session: I went climbing with my friend Rob who is currently beasting through the SIBL comps and HSBC comps in London. We went and tried the new problems that have been put up at Craggy2 in the rock room. Overall it was a good session and lasted for about 3hours. I even managed to climb a few hard things!
08/03/2012-09/03/2012
I spent these days re-setting the Fridge at Westway with Slim and Tricky, this was quite a fun set due to us being allowed to set lots of harder problems above v6. We managed to get 30 problems up on the first day with 3 of us, and then a further 17 on the second day with 2 of us setting. There's quite a bit of harder stuff in their now and quite a lot of problems in the mid grades as well. Unfortunately due to the new revolution holds we were using, I ran out of skin by the morning of the second day! So testing the problems later on proved to be painful!
13/03/2012
I'm back home for a few days so managed to get outdoors to Trowbarrow in the south lakes, I was hoping to try and work a font8a up there, but the holds were very damp and so I only ended up spending an hour climbing there, and then decided to head home. A short but sweet session.
14/03/2012
Due to bad weather I headed indoors to Westview leisure centre where I tried out the new problems. The session started badly with me falling off a v3! After a little pep talk I managed to then on-sight all but 1 of the problems up to v8. I then attempted the v8+'s which were left over from the NIBL comp, one of the problems involves a weird horizontal hanging sequence which I find difficult with my height. So I tried a more direct variation skipping a foothold, which enabled me to get very high on the problem into the second crux, unfortunately I ran out of skin so decided it was time to head home.
Monday, 5 March 2012
Catch up over the past few weeks.
24/02/12 Session
I had a session at Craggy2 about a week or so ago, which went terribly . It was one of those sessions where I had no energy to pull up on anything, so I reverted to slabs which I also failed at. Not a good session...
27/02/12 Session
Again I returned to Craggy2 and had a session which went surprisingly better! I managed to work out some new beta on the font7c+ which makes one of the moves a lot easier. So hopefully in the next few sessions I should be able to climb it.
29/02/12 Session
Again another Craggy2 session, this time I tried out the new problems that have been set for the comp. They were pretty good. One of the problems starts with a massive dyno to a thick edge, which you then heel hook and pop up for a small hold. I found this problem very hard due to me kneeing myself in the head because of cramped move up to the small hold. Being tall sometimes fails!
01/03/12 and 02/03/12 Setting
I ended up setting the new boulder wall at Westway and managed to stick up a few harder problems for once around the v8 mark, which is nice to have. Unfortunately I bruised my palm from too many press(y) problems!
I had a session at Craggy2 about a week or so ago, which went terribly . It was one of those sessions where I had no energy to pull up on anything, so I reverted to slabs which I also failed at. Not a good session...
27/02/12 Session
Again I returned to Craggy2 and had a session which went surprisingly better! I managed to work out some new beta on the font7c+ which makes one of the moves a lot easier. So hopefully in the next few sessions I should be able to climb it.
29/02/12 Session
Again another Craggy2 session, this time I tried out the new problems that have been set for the comp. They were pretty good. One of the problems starts with a massive dyno to a thick edge, which you then heel hook and pop up for a small hold. I found this problem very hard due to me kneeing myself in the head because of cramped move up to the small hold. Being tall sometimes fails!
01/03/12 and 02/03/12 Setting
I ended up setting the new boulder wall at Westway and managed to stick up a few harder problems for once around the v8 mark, which is nice to have. Unfortunately I bruised my palm from too many press(y) problems!
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