It's been a busy week so I haven't had time to update this.
However this week has been a week of progress!
The training sessions are generally running like usual with a mix campus boarding/ fingerboarding/ roof climbing and 45' board training.
I finally got 1-4-7 back and doing 1-3-5-7-9-11 is becoming very easy on the middle rungs. Next week I'll be stepping this up to the smaller rungs and seeing how I fare.
I also repeated the f7c roof problem fairly easily and I have made big progress on the f8b roof problem, there is a final section which is requiring more work but this will be conditions dependent!
Unfortunately I ripped a fingertip again on Thursday, so it looks like I'm confined to easy stuff for the weekend. I plan to head down to the wall today to do laps on jug problems and slab work. I'm thinking of doing some pull up and lock off training as well. This all depends on my fingertip though. I'll update on this later.
1 week left in London now, So I'm hoping to get the last bit of decent training in that I can before the move back North.
Saturday 13 July 2013
Friday 5 July 2013
04/07/13 - Session
I had a session today where I got to test a load of routes with an old friend of mine, who I used to route set with.
He'd just set about 20 problems and needed a consensus on gradings, so I helped him grade them. The majority were between V3-V6 and were really good and very different. It was quite nice to just climb for once and not focus on the training aspect.
I finished the session off my doing 15 pull ups on the Beastmaker 2000 Medium pockets.
He'd just set about 20 problems and needed a consensus on gradings, so I helped him grade them. The majority were between V3-V6 and were really good and very different. It was quite nice to just climb for once and not focus on the training aspect.
I finished the session off my doing 15 pull ups on the Beastmaker 2000 Medium pockets.
Wednesday 3 July 2013
02/07/13 Session
Session went as follows:
Roof
1 x ascent of 6c+
1 x ascent of 7a
1 x ascent of 7b
1 x ascent of 7c
45' Board
Working a few problems that are focussing on power, these are going well and shoulder stability is increasing.
This was a 60 minute board session
I finished this session early due to feeling tired.
Fingerboard
20 x pull ups on jugs on Beastmaker 1000
Roof
1 x ascent of 6c+
1 x ascent of 7a
1 x ascent of 7b
1 x ascent of 7c
45' Board
Working a few problems that are focussing on power, these are going well and shoulder stability is increasing.
This was a 60 minute board session
I finished this session early due to feeling tired.
Fingerboard
20 x pull ups on jugs on Beastmaker 1000
30/06/13 Session
I had a short session today which was a mix of bouldering on the roof and on the 45' board.
I've been attempting wider moves on small crimps.
I finished the session on the fingerboard, doing the usual 5 pull ups on every hold on the Beastmaker 1000.
I've been attempting wider moves on small crimps.
I finished the session on the fingerboard, doing the usual 5 pull ups on every hold on the Beastmaker 1000.
Saturday 29 June 2013
29/06/13 Session
Well after 3 days of rest due to my finger tip pulling up, I decided to have a session today. My nail was feeling fine and my skin thickness had increased do it looked like a good session was to be had.
The session went as follows:
1 x ascent of roof 6b+ (25+ moves)
1 x ascent of roof 6c+ (25+ moves)
Bouldered a V2 and V3 boulder problem.
Climbed a roof V4 boulder problem.
I then decided to rest for 10 minutes and then it happened...
I climbed the roof 7c problem after dropping the last move a few times on Tuesday. The problem felt easy and flowed very well, I think the fact I worked out a better sequence for part of the roof section really helped on keeping the power for the last move crux.
I then decided to attempt the 8b roof problem, I managed to hold the front lever style, pull out of a bat hang move and work out the main roof section. So hopefully I've got 3/4's of the roof sorted now and it's just the final section that pulls out of the roof up a 20' overhanging wall. There is one move here that feels about V5/V6 which I reckon will be the stopper, after the previous 17 moves leading up to it. So I plan to work this over the next week or so and get it dialled so that I can do this problem quickly.
45' board climbing
After spending about an hour on the roof I decided to try some board problems that I'd created. A load of new holds have been added to the board recently which has opened up a lot of possibilities for new problems.
I managed to climb a problem that is about V6 involving very wide side pull snatching moves to a big lunge for sloper. This is a good problem for training compression and worked well.
I did a few more problems around this grade and also started trying a new project that looks to be about V9/V10, it involves a mix of everything, with a side pull(left hand) sit start lunging to a sloping crimp(right hand), you then switch the side pull to an undercut and throw your right hand to a gaston, then get a high right foot and power through to a small crimp again. This section is pretty hard and will take a few sessions to complete.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
1-3-5-7-9-10 on large rungs (By this point I was very tired and decided to leave the campus session for next time).
The session lasted about 3 hours 15 minutes. I tried to limit rest times as much as possible and keep trying stuff during this whole period.
With regards to my progression; I'm finding a very big increase in power endurance especially on the roof problems. I'm also noticing more crimping power on the 45' board, which is allowing me to train much crimpier problems. Since I've been trying a lot of wide move problems I've also noticed a big improvement in being stabilised on wide moves.
All in all, the training is definitely working and I'm psyched to test it out on real rock this summer.
The session went as follows:
1 x ascent of roof 6b+ (25+ moves)
1 x ascent of roof 6c+ (25+ moves)
Bouldered a V2 and V3 boulder problem.
Climbed a roof V4 boulder problem.
I then decided to rest for 10 minutes and then it happened...
I climbed the roof 7c problem after dropping the last move a few times on Tuesday. The problem felt easy and flowed very well, I think the fact I worked out a better sequence for part of the roof section really helped on keeping the power for the last move crux.
I then decided to attempt the 8b roof problem, I managed to hold the front lever style, pull out of a bat hang move and work out the main roof section. So hopefully I've got 3/4's of the roof sorted now and it's just the final section that pulls out of the roof up a 20' overhanging wall. There is one move here that feels about V5/V6 which I reckon will be the stopper, after the previous 17 moves leading up to it. So I plan to work this over the next week or so and get it dialled so that I can do this problem quickly.
45' board climbing
After spending about an hour on the roof I decided to try some board problems that I'd created. A load of new holds have been added to the board recently which has opened up a lot of possibilities for new problems.
I managed to climb a problem that is about V6 involving very wide side pull snatching moves to a big lunge for sloper. This is a good problem for training compression and worked well.
I did a few more problems around this grade and also started trying a new project that looks to be about V9/V10, it involves a mix of everything, with a side pull(left hand) sit start lunging to a sloping crimp(right hand), you then switch the side pull to an undercut and throw your right hand to a gaston, then get a high right foot and power through to a small crimp again. This section is pretty hard and will take a few sessions to complete.
Fingerboard training
5 pull-ups on every hold on Beastmaker 1000. 2 types of holds - 1 minute break - next type etc.
1-3-5-7-9-10 on large rungs (By this point I was very tired and decided to leave the campus session for next time).
The session lasted about 3 hours 15 minutes. I tried to limit rest times as much as possible and keep trying stuff during this whole period.
With regards to my progression; I'm finding a very big increase in power endurance especially on the roof problems. I'm also noticing more crimping power on the 45' board, which is allowing me to train much crimpier problems. Since I've been trying a lot of wide move problems I've also noticed a big improvement in being stabilised on wide moves.
All in all, the training is definitely working and I'm psyched to test it out on real rock this summer.
Tuesday 25 June 2013
25/06/13 Session
Bouldering roof
1 x ascent of 6c+ roof problem
1 x ascent of 7b roof problem
Fell off last move on 7c problem, worked out a new sequence that makes roof crux section easier.
Campus board
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on middle rungs - 3 sets
My fingertip split on the last campus, so I decided to move onto the big rungs and keep my index finger off the campus rungs, so left hand was back 3 campussing.
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs - 3 sets
Fingerboard
I did 5 pull ups on the following:
- Jugs
- 3 finger pocket
- 2 finger pocket
- Smaller 3 finger pocket
10 pull ups on jugs again
Unfortunately I had to cut this session short due to the split tip. I'll have to take a few days rest now.
1 x ascent of 6c+ roof problem
1 x ascent of 7b roof problem
Fell off last move on 7c problem, worked out a new sequence that makes roof crux section easier.
Campus board
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on middle rungs - 3 sets
My fingertip split on the last campus, so I decided to move onto the big rungs and keep my index finger off the campus rungs, so left hand was back 3 campussing.
1-3-5-7-9-11 reverse on big rungs - 3 sets
Fingerboard
I did 5 pull ups on the following:
- Jugs
- 3 finger pocket
- 2 finger pocket
- Smaller 3 finger pocket
10 pull ups on jugs again
Unfortunately I had to cut this session short due to the split tip. I'll have to take a few days rest now.
Monday 24 June 2013
23/06/13 Session
I had a session at another local wall today to try out some new problems.
The session was good and I'm noticing improvement on trying problems above my usual grade. I've also noticed I've got a better lock off ability now and my power endurance increase is really helping on longer problems.
I'm planning on a big session tomorrow, so I'll update more tomorrow.
The session was good and I'm noticing improvement on trying problems above my usual grade. I've also noticed I've got a better lock off ability now and my power endurance increase is really helping on longer problems.
I'm planning on a big session tomorrow, so I'll update more tomorrow.
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