Well the blog diary has got neglected the past month due to my Dad falling ill and being very busy at work. However I have more time now, so here's an update.
I've been climbing again quite a bit lately, this week I've had 4 sessions up to now, all at Craggy2. With the mass of new problems that have been put up I've been down there quite a bit trying them.
Anyway back to training:
Campus boarding 1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs in under 5 minutes seems to be easy now. Even after a break.
I've also been doing a few power endurance sessions:
- 5 minutes climbing as many problems as possible(Grades V0-V5)
- 5minute rest
- Repeat first step, but on different problems.
This seems to give a good forearm pump which gradually reduces the more times you do it. In effect giving you a quicker recovery time.
Core Workout tonight (27/04/12)
- 40 press ups
- 35 leg raise crunches (Lie on back, shoulders on floor. Keep legs straight while lying on back and bring to 90' and return to floor slowly)
- 3 x 60 second leg raises while lying on stomach.
- 5 x 15 second leg raises on bar.
Friday, 27 April 2012
Sunday, 18 March 2012
18/03/2012 - Font 7c!
I had a session at Craig y longridge today. My plan was to first see if it was dry and then attempt to climb at least one 7c. After about a dozen goes on a problem called ' In Excess SDS' I finally managed to climb the problem, which is a mix of razor sharp crimps and wide pinches, you then have foot locks and egyptians to contend with to make it through the crux.
It was a great problem to finally climb and is very much my style. The problems goes up the line where this guys feet are, it's basically straight up and is hard to see in that photo, the holds are there, honest!
It's my first font7c of the year, so I'm happy!
It was a great problem to finally climb and is very much my style. The problems goes up the line where this guys feet are, it's basically straight up and is hard to see in that photo, the holds are there, honest!
It's my first font7c of the year, so I'm happy!
Catch up and crushing!
I've been a bit busy lately and unfortunately haven't been recording my climbs as I had liked to. But here is a quick history of the past few weeks:
07/03/2012
Craggy island session: I went climbing with my friend Rob who is currently beasting through the SIBL comps and HSBC comps in London. We went and tried the new problems that have been put up at Craggy2 in the rock room. Overall it was a good session and lasted for about 3hours. I even managed to climb a few hard things!
08/03/2012-09/03/2012
I spent these days re-setting the Fridge at Westway with Slim and Tricky, this was quite a fun set due to us being allowed to set lots of harder problems above v6. We managed to get 30 problems up on the first day with 3 of us, and then a further 17 on the second day with 2 of us setting. There's quite a bit of harder stuff in their now and quite a lot of problems in the mid grades as well. Unfortunately due to the new revolution holds we were using, I ran out of skin by the morning of the second day! So testing the problems later on proved to be painful!
13/03/2012
I'm back home for a few days so managed to get outdoors to Trowbarrow in the south lakes, I was hoping to try and work a font8a up there, but the holds were very damp and so I only ended up spending an hour climbing there, and then decided to head home. A short but sweet session.
14/03/2012
Due to bad weather I headed indoors to Westview leisure centre where I tried out the new problems. The session started badly with me falling off a v3! After a little pep talk I managed to then on-sight all but 1 of the problems up to v8. I then attempted the v8+'s which were left over from the NIBL comp, one of the problems involves a weird horizontal hanging sequence which I find difficult with my height. So I tried a more direct variation skipping a foothold, which enabled me to get very high on the problem into the second crux, unfortunately I ran out of skin so decided it was time to head home.
07/03/2012
Craggy island session: I went climbing with my friend Rob who is currently beasting through the SIBL comps and HSBC comps in London. We went and tried the new problems that have been put up at Craggy2 in the rock room. Overall it was a good session and lasted for about 3hours. I even managed to climb a few hard things!
08/03/2012-09/03/2012
I spent these days re-setting the Fridge at Westway with Slim and Tricky, this was quite a fun set due to us being allowed to set lots of harder problems above v6. We managed to get 30 problems up on the first day with 3 of us, and then a further 17 on the second day with 2 of us setting. There's quite a bit of harder stuff in their now and quite a lot of problems in the mid grades as well. Unfortunately due to the new revolution holds we were using, I ran out of skin by the morning of the second day! So testing the problems later on proved to be painful!
13/03/2012
I'm back home for a few days so managed to get outdoors to Trowbarrow in the south lakes, I was hoping to try and work a font8a up there, but the holds were very damp and so I only ended up spending an hour climbing there, and then decided to head home. A short but sweet session.
14/03/2012
Due to bad weather I headed indoors to Westview leisure centre where I tried out the new problems. The session started badly with me falling off a v3! After a little pep talk I managed to then on-sight all but 1 of the problems up to v8. I then attempted the v8+'s which were left over from the NIBL comp, one of the problems involves a weird horizontal hanging sequence which I find difficult with my height. So I tried a more direct variation skipping a foothold, which enabled me to get very high on the problem into the second crux, unfortunately I ran out of skin so decided it was time to head home.
Monday, 5 March 2012
Catch up over the past few weeks.
24/02/12 Session
I had a session at Craggy2 about a week or so ago, which went terribly . It was one of those sessions where I had no energy to pull up on anything, so I reverted to slabs which I also failed at. Not a good session...
27/02/12 Session
Again I returned to Craggy2 and had a session which went surprisingly better! I managed to work out some new beta on the font7c+ which makes one of the moves a lot easier. So hopefully in the next few sessions I should be able to climb it.
29/02/12 Session
Again another Craggy2 session, this time I tried out the new problems that have been set for the comp. They were pretty good. One of the problems starts with a massive dyno to a thick edge, which you then heel hook and pop up for a small hold. I found this problem very hard due to me kneeing myself in the head because of cramped move up to the small hold. Being tall sometimes fails!
01/03/12 and 02/03/12 Setting
I ended up setting the new boulder wall at Westway and managed to stick up a few harder problems for once around the v8 mark, which is nice to have. Unfortunately I bruised my palm from too many press(y) problems!
I had a session at Craggy2 about a week or so ago, which went terribly . It was one of those sessions where I had no energy to pull up on anything, so I reverted to slabs which I also failed at. Not a good session...
27/02/12 Session
Again I returned to Craggy2 and had a session which went surprisingly better! I managed to work out some new beta on the font7c+ which makes one of the moves a lot easier. So hopefully in the next few sessions I should be able to climb it.
29/02/12 Session
Again another Craggy2 session, this time I tried out the new problems that have been set for the comp. They were pretty good. One of the problems starts with a massive dyno to a thick edge, which you then heel hook and pop up for a small hold. I found this problem very hard due to me kneeing myself in the head because of cramped move up to the small hold. Being tall sometimes fails!
01/03/12 and 02/03/12 Setting
I ended up setting the new boulder wall at Westway and managed to stick up a few harder problems for once around the v8 mark, which is nice to have. Unfortunately I bruised my palm from too many press(y) problems!
Wednesday, 22 February 2012
21/02/12 Session and General North/South musings
I've barely climbed in the last week unfortunately, but I've had to rush back North due to my dad being taken into hospital. So climbing had dropped onto the back burner for a while.
I managed to go up to Westview in Preston last night and had a good session managing to climb a few v8/v8+'s. It wasn't really a major session though. I find now that the gradings between north and south are quite different. It seems problems in London are far harder, but not as fluid and nice to climb.
I guess it just depends on the setters and the type of climbing they mainly prefer. At westview it's mainly crimpy problems due to Ian Vickers setting there who is a very strong climber, the current set had a lot of gaston moves in it which I find are lacking in London.
I think that currently in London one of the best walls for bouldering setting would be Craggy Island, with Mark Croxall as their main setter. It seems for me that his style matches my style very well. Plus I've had to learn how to hold wide pinches on steep overhangs! Which I use to be terrible at doing.
I managed to go up to Westview in Preston last night and had a good session managing to climb a few v8/v8+'s. It wasn't really a major session though. I find now that the gradings between north and south are quite different. It seems problems in London are far harder, but not as fluid and nice to climb.
I guess it just depends on the setters and the type of climbing they mainly prefer. At westview it's mainly crimpy problems due to Ian Vickers setting there who is a very strong climber, the current set had a lot of gaston moves in it which I find are lacking in London.
I think that currently in London one of the best walls for bouldering setting would be Craggy Island, with Mark Croxall as their main setter. It seems for me that his style matches my style very well. Plus I've had to learn how to hold wide pinches on steep overhangs! Which I use to be terrible at doing.
Tuesday, 14 February 2012
14/02/2012 Session
I had a session at Craggy2 today which went really well. I managed to finally work out a move on the font7c+, which involves a simultaneous toe hook and heel hook while throwing up for a sloper on a very steep overhang. Hopefully next session I shall managed to climb the whole thing in one go. So hopefully 3 sessions and it's done!
I also spent a lot of time creating my own problems to try, which involved lots of hard gaston/press moves that are almost at full reach, so it makes you really have to use your shoulders on the problems.
I then finished off the session with the following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs - I managed all of this in under 5 minutes without really getting pumped!
I then did a set of 1-5 and reverse with both hands separately on all 3 sets of rungs, this is the same as mentioned in a previous post. So one hand on and one foot on a small foothold below the campus board. The smallest rungs are trickier to hold as expected and holding the 5th rung is quite tricky.
Nail bed update/ Chalk update
Interestingly after having a 2hour session I had no nail problems today and no pain at all in my fingers. I think this is definitely down to the change in chalk that I have been using. I shall keep track of this over the next few weeks and make notes for each session. It seems all I needed after all was pure old Magnesium Carbonate.
I also spent a lot of time creating my own problems to try, which involved lots of hard gaston/press moves that are almost at full reach, so it makes you really have to use your shoulders on the problems.
I then finished off the session with the following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs - I managed all of this in under 5 minutes without really getting pumped!
I then did a set of 1-5 and reverse with both hands separately on all 3 sets of rungs, this is the same as mentioned in a previous post. So one hand on and one foot on a small foothold below the campus board. The smallest rungs are trickier to hold as expected and holding the 5th rung is quite tricky.
Nail bed update/ Chalk update
Interestingly after having a 2hour session I had no nail problems today and no pain at all in my fingers. I think this is definitely down to the change in chalk that I have been using. I shall keep track of this over the next few weeks and make notes for each session. It seems all I needed after all was pure old Magnesium Carbonate.
Saturday, 11 February 2012
10/02/2012 Session
I headed down to Craggy2 for a session yesterday, I had decided beforehand to tape over the nail injury and see if I could still climb on it. The result... I could! So I climbed quite a few problems up to about v6, it seemed anything harder than v6 I wasn't able to climb due to lack of friction with the tape on my finger.
I decided to then go and have a campus session, and managed to following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs.
I then decided to do doubles up the medium sized rungs and managed 1-9.
I then tried something new, basically I kept 1 foot (Lets say right foot) on a foothold below the campus board and with my (right) hand I would then go up the campus board one hand only up to the fifth rung and reverse it. I did this for both hands/feet on each set of rung sizes. The smallest rungs are quite tricky.
It seems to be quite a good exercise for body tension and contact strength for when you lunge for holds with only one hand.
I think I shall now incorporate this into my training routine and hopefully it will help for those pesky lunging climbing moves...
I decided to then go and have a campus session, and managed to following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs.
I then decided to do doubles up the medium sized rungs and managed 1-9.
I then tried something new, basically I kept 1 foot (Lets say right foot) on a foothold below the campus board and with my (right) hand I would then go up the campus board one hand only up to the fifth rung and reverse it. I did this for both hands/feet on each set of rung sizes. The smallest rungs are quite tricky.
It seems to be quite a good exercise for body tension and contact strength for when you lunge for holds with only one hand.
I think I shall now incorporate this into my training routine and hopefully it will help for those pesky lunging climbing moves...
Thursday, 9 February 2012
09/02/2012 Session
So I've taken a couple of days off over the past week due to ripping up my nail again. I went to Westway this evening and my first port of call was the shop, I bought a box of climbing chalk which had no drying agent in it, I then proceeded to give all of the metolius super chalk to my friend Laura, lucky girl! That cost me £6.
So I went for a boulder session and climbed a few problems from v0-v6, but then got bored unfortunately due to there not being enough harder things to try. So I decided to go give the campus board a re-visit. I managed the following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs (1 minute break in between)
1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7-6-8-7-9-8-10-9-11 on the largest rung.
1-3-5-7-9-11 on largest set of rungs
I then planned to carry on with a longer campus session, but somehow managed to get my toothbrush to catch under the bad finger nail, resulting in the bristles of the brush cutting my nail bed again... NNFN!
Hopefully if it heals OK tonight, I shall go for a bouldering session tomorrow. We shall see how it goes...
So I went for a boulder session and climbed a few problems from v0-v6, but then got bored unfortunately due to there not being enough harder things to try. So I decided to go give the campus board a re-visit. I managed the following:
1-3-5-7-9-11 and reverse on all 3 sets of rungs (1 minute break in between)
1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7-6-8-7-9-8-10-9-11 on the largest rung.
1-3-5-7-9-11 on largest set of rungs
I then planned to carry on with a longer campus session, but somehow managed to get my toothbrush to catch under the bad finger nail, resulting in the bristles of the brush cutting my nail bed again... NNFN!
Hopefully if it heals OK tonight, I shall go for a bouldering session tomorrow. We shall see how it goes...
Friday, 3 February 2012
Chalk - will it harm you?
I've noticed recently that since I've started using Metolius super chalk that my skin is more dry and I'm more susceptible to having nail bed problems. I posted a query on ukbouldering asking for advice on this, which can be seen here:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19454.0.html
It seems from other peoples replies that the super chalk does cause dry skin problems due to the drying agent that is added to the chalk, which I now think may be a reason to the nail bed lacerations.
The chalk I was using, was this metolius chalk:
I've decided to revert back to the chalk I used to use which is the C.A.M.P. climbing chalk. I've never used to have skin problems with this, so hopefully I'll see how it goes with the new-old chalk and post an update.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19454.0.html
It seems from other peoples replies that the super chalk does cause dry skin problems due to the drying agent that is added to the chalk, which I now think may be a reason to the nail bed lacerations.
The chalk I was using, was this metolius chalk:
I've decided to revert back to the chalk I used to use which is the C.A.M.P. climbing chalk. I've never used to have skin problems with this, so hopefully I'll see how it goes with the new-old chalk and post an update.
Climbing Catch up...
Friday 27th January Session
I headed down to craggy2 in the hope of trying the new problems but unfortunately the main comp room was closed off and the room that was open was half closed due to setting for a climbing comp the next day. I had a short 1hour session and basically tried to throw laps on problems to try and get pumped out.
Saturday 28th January Session
I had a session after work which was meant to be a power endurance session, but with the new boulder problems being up I decided to try them instead. I also climbed with my friend and we decided to make up a lot of problems that were probably in the v7-v9 range. The hardest one involved a large shoulder pressing gaston move, which is yet to be done. I must try this again this weekend. I was suffering from sore finger tips/nail beds again though.
Tuesday 31st January
I was route setting all day on Tuesday, so didn't get much climbing in. Plus we had a power cut at the centre which wasn't great! We were praying the impact batteries would last until the power came back or we'd be down to T-bar setting... I ended up setting 3 traverses, probably graded at 5+, 6a and 7a. I also jumped in and added a v5 problem to the 40' board which was cool, it ended up being a wide powerful pinch/crimp problem. Just my style!
Wednesday 1st February Session
I headed to Craggy2 for the evening with the hope of finally trying all the new problems. Generally the new problems seemed good, although there was a lot of pinch style problems which are not my style, but it will definitely help for improving. I tried the font7c+ which is a problem of all slopey holds and wide moves, it's a very good problem, but will need a lot of work! I can get about half way at the moment after one session. So we shall see. Unfortunately my session ended sooner than I wanted due to my nail bed bleeding again!
I headed down to craggy2 in the hope of trying the new problems but unfortunately the main comp room was closed off and the room that was open was half closed due to setting for a climbing comp the next day. I had a short 1hour session and basically tried to throw laps on problems to try and get pumped out.
Saturday 28th January Session
I had a session after work which was meant to be a power endurance session, but with the new boulder problems being up I decided to try them instead. I also climbed with my friend and we decided to make up a lot of problems that were probably in the v7-v9 range. The hardest one involved a large shoulder pressing gaston move, which is yet to be done. I must try this again this weekend. I was suffering from sore finger tips/nail beds again though.
Tuesday 31st January
I was route setting all day on Tuesday, so didn't get much climbing in. Plus we had a power cut at the centre which wasn't great! We were praying the impact batteries would last until the power came back or we'd be down to T-bar setting... I ended up setting 3 traverses, probably graded at 5+, 6a and 7a. I also jumped in and added a v5 problem to the 40' board which was cool, it ended up being a wide powerful pinch/crimp problem. Just my style!
Wednesday 1st February Session
I headed to Craggy2 for the evening with the hope of finally trying all the new problems. Generally the new problems seemed good, although there was a lot of pinch style problems which are not my style, but it will definitely help for improving. I tried the font7c+ which is a problem of all slopey holds and wide moves, it's a very good problem, but will need a lot of work! I can get about half way at the moment after one session. So we shall see. Unfortunately my session ended sooner than I wanted due to my nail bed bleeding again!
Thursday, 26 January 2012
25/01/12 Session
I popped down to Craggy2 last night to try out some of their new problems, generally it was a pretty fun session. I managed quite a lot of font6c/7a's first go, and almost on-sighted a font7b(Considering Craggy2 has the hardest setting in London, possibly anywhere I've climbed actually, I'm quite impressed with myself!).
I'm starting to realise that I need to really get back into lock off training though, while I can lock off quite easily, I need to start training this with full body locks on a steep board. I'm thinking maybe on the 40' at Westway that I try holding hard gaston/crimp/pocket/side pull moves for a certain amount of time until failure, in the hope of improving locking strength on steeper things. Plus it's good for your core!
We should hopefully be getting the holds to build the systems board at Westway either tomorrow, or next week. So I'm going to start training on that a lot as well, possibly incorporating it into campus/fingerboard session when I'm there.
Today's a rest day, but I'm popping back to Craggy2 tomorrow to try all the other new stuff being set today. Hopefully there shall be some font 7c's/7c+'s up by then! :)
I'm starting to realise that I need to really get back into lock off training though, while I can lock off quite easily, I need to start training this with full body locks on a steep board. I'm thinking maybe on the 40' at Westway that I try holding hard gaston/crimp/pocket/side pull moves for a certain amount of time until failure, in the hope of improving locking strength on steeper things. Plus it's good for your core!
We should hopefully be getting the holds to build the systems board at Westway either tomorrow, or next week. So I'm going to start training on that a lot as well, possibly incorporating it into campus/fingerboard session when I'm there.
Today's a rest day, but I'm popping back to Craggy2 tomorrow to try all the other new stuff being set today. Hopefully there shall be some font 7c's/7c+'s up by then! :)
Tuesday, 24 January 2012
24/01/2012 Session
So today I went to the wall with the intention of having a weighted vest session.
I started off with a quick warm up (Without the vest).
Then I did a load of problems around v0-v4 while wearing the (5kg)vest, a few of these felt a lot harder, so I think when using the vest it bumps most problems up a grade.
I then got distracted and went bouldering with some friends(without the vest) and ended up almost doing a v9, and failing pitifully on a v8.
Mental note: Get thicker skin...
Oh and here is a photo of the weight vest I have purchased:
Please note that isn't me wearing it!
I started off with a quick warm up (Without the vest).
Then I did a load of problems around v0-v4 while wearing the (5kg)vest, a few of these felt a lot harder, so I think when using the vest it bumps most problems up a grade.
I then got distracted and went bouldering with some friends(without the vest) and ended up almost doing a v9, and failing pitifully on a v8.
Mental note: Get thicker skin...
Oh and here is a photo of the weight vest I have purchased:
Please note that isn't me wearing it!
Saturday, 21 January 2012
Week catch-up.
I've been a bit busy this week, so haven't had time to update, here's what's been happening:
Tuesday 17/01/2012 Session
I headed to Craggy2 today and had a session of light bouldering up to about V6.During my previous session at Westview I slightly tweaked my wrist, which left a lump on my tendon sheaf in my wrist. This seemed to dissipate over the course of the week and has now left a slight lump.
Thursday/Friday 19th/20th January
I spent Thursday route setting down at Westway setting problems from V3-V5, we had received a set of brand new holds from Revolution, which had some really funky shapes and were very abrasive! I managed to set 7 problems over 2-3hours. On Friday I headed in and tested the problems and tweaked them to make them slightly easier. In the end there ended up being 2 very tricky slab problems, 2 overhanging problems and 3 vertical problems.
While setting I also realised that the pain I had been suffering in my wrist had completely vanished. So I decided to try out the weighted vest I had received the previous week. Overall I found climbing in it proved to be relatively easy, although jumping from the top of the wall certainly proves to be trickier!
Full training shall start again tomorrow, hopefully I shall evade the injuries!
Tuesday 17/01/2012 Session
I headed to Craggy2 today and had a session of light bouldering up to about V6.During my previous session at Westview I slightly tweaked my wrist, which left a lump on my tendon sheaf in my wrist. This seemed to dissipate over the course of the week and has now left a slight lump.
Thursday/Friday 19th/20th January
I spent Thursday route setting down at Westway setting problems from V3-V5, we had received a set of brand new holds from Revolution, which had some really funky shapes and were very abrasive! I managed to set 7 problems over 2-3hours. On Friday I headed in and tested the problems and tweaked them to make them slightly easier. In the end there ended up being 2 very tricky slab problems, 2 overhanging problems and 3 vertical problems.
While setting I also realised that the pain I had been suffering in my wrist had completely vanished. So I decided to try out the weighted vest I had received the previous week. Overall I found climbing in it proved to be relatively easy, although jumping from the top of the wall certainly proves to be trickier!
Full training shall start again tomorrow, hopefully I shall evade the injuries!
Friday, 13 January 2012
12/01/2012 Session
I had a session at Westview again, the bouldering had been re-set so loads of new problems to play on.
I started off with the usual warm up of climbing routes up to v6 and then had a rest. I then on-sighted a v8+, almost on-sighted a second v8+ - I fell going for a match on the top hold. I got pretty far up a lot of the other v8/+'s as well. I'm feeling strong at the moment which is good and I have no back pain any more. Plus the weight vest has arrived, so since I'm back to London on Saturday my real training can kick start again.
Psyche is high.
I started off with the usual warm up of climbing routes up to v6 and then had a rest. I then on-sighted a v8+, almost on-sighted a second v8+ - I fell going for a match on the top hold. I got pretty far up a lot of the other v8/+'s as well. I'm feeling strong at the moment which is good and I have no back pain any more. Plus the weight vest has arrived, so since I'm back to London on Saturday my real training can kick start again.
Psyche is high.
Wednesday, 11 January 2012
11/01/2012 Session
So I had a session today in 'The shed', my friend Iggi has built a climbing training wall in an old concrete out building.
It has a full systems board, a climbing cave, a campus board, a fingerboard, 2 pull up bars, and is soon to have a personalised campus style board. I've included 2 photos below:
Tonight we decided to have a systems sessions, so basically did a set on every type of holds and then repeated this twice. We then decided to try alternating holds when climbing up, such as left hand pockets, right hand slopers etc.
It was a fun session and lasted about 2hours.
It has a full systems board, a climbing cave, a campus board, a fingerboard, 2 pull up bars, and is soon to have a personalised campus style board. I've included 2 photos below:
Tonight we decided to have a systems sessions, so basically did a set on every type of holds and then repeated this twice. We then decided to try alternating holds when climbing up, such as left hand pockets, right hand slopers etc.
It was a fun session and lasted about 2hours.
10/01/2012 Session
I had a session at Westview today in Preston, due to the bouldering being closed it was going to have to be a route session (Not really my cup of tea). I lead for an hour or so and did a few routes ranging from f5-f6c+. Did a slight bit of bouldering on a problem that we made up on a featured wall, this probably weighed in at v8+. Then went over and played on the fingerboard.
I've noticed since coming home that my training has dropped off massively, this is due to lack of access to good training facilities. I'm off back to London on Friday so I shall be getting back into my training, plus my new weight vest arrives today. Which should be a 10kg one with adjustable weight. So I hope to intensify the training soon.
I've noticed since coming home that my training has dropped off massively, this is due to lack of access to good training facilities. I'm off back to London on Friday so I shall be getting back into my training, plus my new weight vest arrives today. Which should be a 10kg one with adjustable weight. So I hope to intensify the training soon.
09/01/2012 Session
I had a session at my friend Iggi's climbing wall today (He built a training wall in a large concrete room - It's pretty good!).
We ended up doing sets on the systems board, but due to the power dying we were using my phones torch to give us enough light to see the holds. We then moved onto the fingerboard and did a few sets of pull ups on all the holds on the board. This was a very short session only lasting 1 hour.
We ended up doing sets on the systems board, but due to the power dying we were using my phones torch to give us enough light to see the holds. We then moved onto the fingerboard and did a few sets of pull ups on all the holds on the board. This was a very short session only lasting 1 hour.
Thursday, 5 January 2012
04/01/12 Session
I had a session last night at Blackpool again, which consisted of rope climbing! I did a few routes up to about 7b+ on-sight. Then I decided to go for a bouldering session and managed to do 4 v8/+'s and then many other routes. It seems the reason that I had such a bad session on Tuesday was down to fatigue, I was feeling strong and psyched last night.
I find it interesting how with climbing you can have a great session, then a terrible one the next day where you struggle to climb anything, then another brilliant session the day after. Psyche seems to be a very important factor in this.
I find it interesting how with climbing you can have a great session, then a terrible one the next day where you struggle to climb anything, then another brilliant session the day after. Psyche seems to be a very important factor in this.
Wednesday, 4 January 2012
Christmas Climbing Sessions
27/12/11
On the 27th I went climbing at BoulderUK with some friends, and managed to on-sight 2 v8's and various other routes. It was a good session for evaluating my current climbing style compared with Northern route setting.
29/12/11
I had a session at Westview leisure centre with some friends again, and managed to climb 3 v8's and various other routes. However I was feeling slightly fatigued from the session a few days before so I got tired relatively quickly.
03/01/2012
I had a short session with my girlfriend at Blackpool Sports Centres wall where I climbed a lot of the routes up to v7. However I was feeling VERY weak, and only climbed for 60 minutes.
On the 27th I went climbing at BoulderUK with some friends, and managed to on-sight 2 v8's and various other routes. It was a good session for evaluating my current climbing style compared with Northern route setting.
29/12/11
I had a session at Westview leisure centre with some friends again, and managed to climb 3 v8's and various other routes. However I was feeling slightly fatigued from the session a few days before so I got tired relatively quickly.
03/01/2012
I had a short session with my girlfriend at Blackpool Sports Centres wall where I climbed a lot of the routes up to v7. However I was feeling VERY weak, and only climbed for 60 minutes.
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